End-Grain Chess Board – SCOPES-DF

Lesson Details

Age Ranges *
Standards
Fab-Safety.2
Author

Author

Sam Goodrich
Informal educator

Summary

This lesson is designed for those interested in getting hands-on time with wood shop-based tools. In this lesson plan we’ll go over how to build a playing surface for one of the oldest known tactical games still played today throughout most cultures on this planet. Chess is a game that has players from all around the world, separated by culture and language, and connected by 64 squares and 32 pieces that make up this scholastic game. Whether you’re just learning, a piece hustler, or a tactical genius, your future board can be a common ground to spend some genuine face-to-face time with someone in this otherwise tech driven world.

What You'll Need

Playing Squares

  • 4 – 2″x 2″ x 8″ Maple Wood Turning Blanks
  • 4 – 2″x 2″ x 8″ Walnut Wood Turning Blanks

 

Chess Board Frame

  • 1 – 1″ x 3″ x 8″ (Your Choice of Wood) Walnut Board for frame

 

Tools Needed

  • Chop Saw
  • Table Saw
  • Table Router
  • Diablo 3/8 in. Carbide Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set
  • Planer
  • ShopBot CNC
  • Epilogue Legend 36EXT Laser Cutter
  • 5″ Random Orbit Sandor
  • 8 – 24″ Quick Release Bar Clamps

 

Supplies Needed

  • Sandpaper Set 10 Grades Includes 60, 80, 100, 120, 150,180, 240, 320, 400, 600
  • Wax Paper
  • Titebond Original Wood Glue
  • Paint brush or roller (for glue application)
  • Sponge and container for water (for glue removal)
  • Howard Products Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner

 

Other Items Needed

  • Design Software (CorelDraw, Adobe Illustrator)

 

Optional Items

  • Resin (for filling between frame and board)
  • Pencil
  • Small Paper Pad or Paper

 

The Instructions

The Opening Game: Preparation

Now is the time to prepare our turning blanks for their transformation.

Turning Blanks into Ranks and Files

If we are using turning blanks (blanks), we have to make sure our blanks are all the same size. We can do this by using calipers to measure every blank on both ends and in the middle.

 

To make this easy on our selves make sure you have a pencil, and some scratch paper if you’re not willing to write on the wood. Once you measure all sides (not including the length) number each blank and write both the number and it’s measurements down on the scratch piece of paper.

 

 

 An Even Planing Field

After measuring all blanks and determining the smallest, begin to prepare the planer by setting the height to match the height of the smallest blank.

 

Once height is set, you will run all blanks through planer in a specific manner. For consistency purpose you can mark the end of a blank with a pencil marking the side you’re sending through the planer. In the picture above we would make a hashmark at the end on the top side as this will be the one cut. Once the first side goes through, rotate blank left or right once, mark that side and send it through again. We should only need to plane these two sides.

 

 

TASK COMPLETE 

This task is complete when all our blanks can line up end to end with no variation in sizes. No blank should be thicker or thinner than the other.

 

Prepare for the next step by placing your blanks on the table alternating wood types so they sit walnut, maple, and so on continuing this pattern until all 8 blanks are side-by-side.

 

 

 

Next Step

The Opening Game: Binding the Blanks

First we plane, then we BIND!

After ensuring all blanks are leveled and are lined up alternating wood types, we move on to the application of wood glue.

 

In this process we will apply wood glue to a single block, spread out the glue with a brush, stick the blank to the adjacent blanks, and add pressure.

 

 

 

 

Gluing the Blanks Together

 

While gluing these pieces together, make sure you are setting the glued pieces down onto wax paper. This will make it easy to sand off the wax paper when the glue dries.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Start with applying the glue to a single blank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spread the glue out evenly with a paint brush.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the glue covered side of the blank aimed toward the blank beside it, and press the two pieces together evenly. Continuing this process until all pieces are glued to one another.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*As you glue, keep a sponge or rag near by with a container of warm water to wipe away excess glue as you place them together. This will reduce the amount of cleanup once the adhesive dries.

 

 

When all pieces are glued together, use Bar Clamps pushing inwards on the long-sides of the blanks to apply pressure, cleaning the glue off as you tighten the clamps.

Be sure to adjust your blanks as you tighten to make sure they stay aligned. I found it helpful to make a small sled that I then laid my waxy paper inside to help with keeping my board aligned the second time I made this board.

 

Let glue dry for a minimum of 24 hours. While glue is drying you can start on building the Frame and designing the letters and numbers that will be rastered into the boarder.

The Opening Game: OPTIONAL-Frame Design with Laser Printer

*Optional Step* We will be using design software, and an Epilogue Laser Printer for this step. Make Use of the Time You Have While You're Waiting for Glue to Dry. It is time to begin designing your frame of the chess board.

 

This phase is both optional, and can be done at any point during the board making process. You can easily choose to only make the chess board, and skip all boarder making processes moving forward. I chose to place the step here to provide an effective way to utilize the wait time while the glue sets and drys.